Shavemac needs no introduction. Their D01 hair is their premium silvertip hair. Described as being “powerful”, D01 hair has good backbone. Extremely densely packed with tier 1 silvertip hair, the D01 knot is an exemplar of Shavemac’s reputation for quality.

The brush has a lot of backbone due to the density and effective loft. Like all Shavemacs, this brush has a noticeable glue bump. Extreme density of the hairs made for a little bit of scritch as the brush was broken in, but once broken in, the brush became very soft. Not as soft as Shavemac’s silvertip, but it is a good hair.

The handle has some nice engraving in it. The persian jar shape is comfortable to hold. However, it is made out of resin instead of acrylic, so it feels a little less solid.

• 25mm knot
• 56mm loft
• 104mm total height
• 65 grams

New Forest brushes are made from Chinese made knots and British made handles. The marriage makes for some good looking brushes. The High Mountain Badger is described by Peter as coming from badgers from the high mountains of China. He makes some allusions to Plisson’s HMW. It should be noted at this point the hair is not the same.

Every once in a while Peter seems to come out with this better quality silvertip hair. It is significantly better than the regular silvertip he offers. This hair is certainly on par with the big names. The knot has a soft feel to the tips. I would describe it as good tier 1 silvertip hair. The handle is extremely well crafted and features a faux ivory pattern. The new design is aesthetically pleasing and fits well in the hand.

• 22mm knot
• 47mm loft
• 91mm total height
• 47 grams

Morris & Forndran is an old English company. Bought by Lee Sabini sometime after the turn of the century, production has now been moved to an undisclosed location. There are doubts held by some members of the shaving community as to true country of origin. Regardless, it is a well made brush. M&F and Rooney are essentially the same company with much crossover. Both are owned by Lee Sabini. The difference between the two companies seems to be that M&F is Mr. Sabini’s limited run editions.

The handle is an acrylic faux horn in the Rooney style 1 shape. It feels quite good in the hand and is pleasing to the eye. The hair is the well known Blonde Badger. This hair has many fans. This particular example is characterized by extremely good backbone in each individual hair with soft tips. The individual shafts are quite thick and imparts a lot of firmness. On the face, the brush feels soft with a bit of scritch. It does have a very noticeable amount of scritch, but it’s not a scratch. You can certainly use the brush every day if you wanted to.

• 55mm loft
• 24.5mm knot
• 103mm total height
• 70 grams

The Persian Jar brush by Simpson is a truly gorgeous looking brush. Featuring a very distinctive and aesthetically pleasing persian jar shape to the handle, the brush is beautiful and ergonomic if held in the right way. It does take some getting used to though. Lathe turned out of acrylic, the faux ivory handle is another fine creation by the people on the Isle of Man.

The badger hair in this brush is Simpson’s super badger grade. The same high quality hair as Vulfix Silvertip, this silvertip hair is tier 1 quality. Very soft on the face and truly luxurious. This brush is a fine example of the quality of this hair. Set in a short loft, it has good backbone to it and not too much bloom. Densely packed with high quality badger hair, this brush is a joy to use.

• 21mm knot
• 49mm loft
• 103mm total height
• 60 grams

Ah, Simpson. Every serious wet-shaver knows Simpson brushes. Still constructed in England on the Isle of Man, Simpson is the brush to beat. And what causes even more interest than Simpsons? Why, the elusive and obscenely expensive Manchurian hair offered by Simpson.

Specifications

• 24mm diameter knot at the base
• 51mm loft
• 102mm total height
• CNC Lathe turned acrylic resin handle 51mm tall

Initial Thoughts

I haven’t hidden the fact that Simpson is a luxury brand and represents very poor value for your dollar. However, they offer something you cannot find elsewhere. So far no other brush maker has replicated their Manchurian hair. While this particular brush and I have had a rocky start, we have come to terms. See this thread for my multi part review and break in experience.

Long story short: the brush required some extensive break in. Much like a good quality boar brush. However, it did soften up and conform to most other people’s descriptions of this hair.

Softness/Feel

In the beginning, the brush was very scratchy. Not very pleasant on the face at all. It took the equivalent of about 20 latherings to soften the hairs. There is no evidence of curling or splitting, but whatever happened, the brush is much softer on the face now. It can surely be used every day without issue. In short, the hair is quite scrubby, but most of it is very soft on the face. It has a lot of backbone too.

Trying to describe the nuances of the hair, the knot definitely has quite a bit of backbone. The hairs are quite thick. Perhaps even wiry. This backbone gives the brush that scrub it is famous for. The backbone of this brush is very similar to black badger or the lowest grade of finest (2 band) hair. Except it is not the same hair because the tips are longer and whiter. A truly unique hair only Simpsons seems able to source so far.

The tips are exceptionally soft when using paint brush (back & forth) strokes. Just like all good quality hair. The difference becomes truly noticeable when using circular strokes to build the lather. At that point the backbone really kicks in and you can feel the scrub. There is a bunch of scritch throughout the knot. You can really feel it. It feels just like a light scrubbing face wash. 90% of the hairs feel very soft, like good quality 2 band hair. Not gel-like by any means, but soft, like good quality best badger hair.

I wouldn’t say the feel is luxurious by any stretch. However, it is truly unique and provides a good scrubbing sensation many people like. This author likes the sensation, but prefers the luxury of High Mountain White badger hair.

Density/Flow

This brush is well packed with Manchurian grade hair. It is about medium or medium high in density. The thicker hairs mean the density of the brush isn’t going to be super packed like a Chubby in Super. However, this also means good flow through. No lather hog here. In addition, this brush is a real hard soap killer. It will load up really well with hard soaps.

Construction

The handle is extremely well made. Just like all Simpson handles. The tulip shape is also one of my favorites from that company. The knot is also of good quality. The tips are quite white, even though the middle black band is on the short side for 2 band hair.

There is, however, a noticeable glue bump in this brush. Most likely because the hairs used are short and Simpson cannot make the knot long enough to sink the glue bump all the way into the handle.

Final Thoughts

Another stunning example from Simpson. Visually, this brush hits all the high notes. Construction is top notch. It’s a joy to use. This is the perfect brush for those who like their brush to feel scrubby without the scratch of black badger.

As of the date of this writing, Simpson is the only source of the fabled and ultra rare Manchurian hair. Wherever it comes from and whatever it is, it is very rare indeed.

The mystical Rooney. Founded a long time ago, did business as London Brush Works, had some letter asking for badger hair from China circulated around the internet, and sold to Lee Sabini recently. Well, the brand name was anyway. No one knows where their factory is except Lee Sabini. But enough of the intrigue. Regardless of where their brushes are made, they are made well and are priced at a much more affordable point than Vulfix/Simpson.

If they are made in China, they must be made in the Foxcon of Chinese brush factories. Actually it would just go to show that more & better stuff is made in China than we think.

Specs

• 92 mm height
• 47 mm loft 49 mm actual
• 28 mm knot
• 65 grams

Initial Thoughts

Upon first receiving this brush my thought was “this looks good.” And I was not disappointed. The handle, be it injection molded or lathe turned, is well shaped and easy to hold. The tips are extremely white for a 2 band brush. They might be bleached, this author does not know. Regardless, they are very white.

The handle is fairly large. It fits quite nicely in my hand. The 28mm knot is a good size. I like this brush.

Softness

These hairs have been described as gel-like. My first few outings with this brush blew my mind. I have not tried anything quite like it. Well, this author has since experienced the same quality hair from Wet Shaving Products, but that is a different matter. Anyway, this hair is amazing. The tips are just really really soft. Not as soft as Shavemac’s silvertip, but that hair has been well treated. I couldn’t find obvious signs of bleaching with this hair.

This is a very well constructed brush. Wherever it is made, it is a fine example of top quality craftsmanship. The hairs are super soft when wet. The knot is well packed, but not overstuffed. It’s really everything you could want in a 2 band brush. Everything, except the price. Extremely expensive at $189.99 and sold exclusively through Vintage Blades, that’s a tough cookie to swallow.

If you are on the fence, this author’s recommendation is to wait a month to see if anything new comes out. That said, it’s also out of stock.

Kent, makers of the world’s finest brushes, or so they claim. The title of England’s best brushes is certainly disagreed with by Vulfix/Simpson I’m sure. Anyway, they do still have that royal warrant. Regardless of their standing in the brush making world, they certainly do make fine brushes. The BK8 and BK4 are no exception.

The BK8 is a good size brush. Significantly larger than the BK4. It is a much better all around brush in this author’s opinion.

Brush Specs:

• Height: 108 mm
• Loft: 58 mm
• Knot: 24 mm
• Weight: 72 grams

Initial Thoughts

This brush is gorgeous. Kent brushes look and feel amazing. No doubts about that. However, many a wet shaver on the forums declares both the BK4 and BK8 to be too floppy. This is due to the large loft. The BK4 has a 55mm loft and a 22mm knot and the BK8 has a 58mm loft. This makes both brushes on the floppy side. Simply amazing for bowl latherers, but hardcore face latherers seem to find something to be desired when face lathering with those brushes.

Density/Flow

You can rest assured that if you purchase a Kent BK8, you will be greeted with a very well packed brush. Kent does not skimp on the hairs. This brush is on the dense side of the scale. Which is necessary because this brush has a relatively high loft. Not as high as say a Parker brush, but high, nonetheless. Kent has perhaps the highest lofts of any of the major brush brands.

The flow through is excellent. Even though the brush is very dense, it is not a lather hog. This is due to the very good loft to density ratio.

Construction/Design

This brush is quite simply of excellent design. The handles of Kent’s past were certainly better, but you would be hard pressed to find a more elegant handle design. This handle is made of regular resin and was injection molded. This does not detract from the utility, but it does feel lighter in the hand than older models. The printing remains excellent. It hasn’t rubbed off after many uses.

The knot does have a noticeable glue bump, but most of it is sunk into the handle. Actually, if it was more prominent, the high loft wouldn’t be an issue at all.

Performance/Softness

Kent is known as having some of the softest hairs in the business. This hair is certainly top tier. Ranks right up there with Simpson Super, Vulfix Silvertip, & Shavemac D01. No bleaching is evident on these hairs. The black band is prominent and the hairs are extra long due to the high loft. If I were to describe what it is like shaving with this brush it would be “shaving with a cloud.”

The high loft discourages most or some hardcore face latherers from using this brush. However, the loft belies the density and efficacy of shaving with this beauty. It is true that the loft is relatively high, however, that does not hold back this brush. The loft does mean it takes a little longer to load the brush using hard soaps. You really have to swirl the outer edge of the brush in the soap to get it really loaded. This is because the hairs flex quite a bit. It’s not like loading with a Chubby. As such, using a cream is a good idea.

In terms of the face lathering experience, the brush performs admirably, but is not the same as shaving with a shorter lofted brush. Nonetheless, the brush works exceptionally well if you use primarily paintbrush strokes. Circular strokes will build up the lather, but the paintbrush strokes will lay it on thick for you. If you bowl lather, this brush is every wet shaver’s luxurious dream.

Final Thoughts

This brush is a gorgeous example of one of the finest and most luxurious brushes available on the market. While it does not live up to its former glory, the price is not bad for what you get. The brush is simply pure luxury if you bowl lather. If you face lather, it is equally luxurious. The only downside for hardcore face latherers is the lack of scrub. But that is the tradeoff for shaving with a cloud.

Ah, Simpson. Every serious wet-shaver knows Simpson brushes. Still constructed in England on the Isle of Man, Simpson is the brush to beat. And what causes even more interest than Simpsons? Why, the elusive and obscenely expensive Manchurian hair offered by Simpson.

Specifications

• 20mm actual, 21.5mm at the base
• 46.5mm loft
• 86mm total height
• CNC Lathe turned acrylic resin handle 39mm high
• 46 grams

Initial Thoughts

I’ll be honest, I think Simpson brushes are a very poor value for your dollar. I also have my doubts about what makes this Manchurian hair so unique, so rare, and so popular. But, it cannot be denied that the Classic is a classic. And in Manchurian hair, this brush looks fantastic!

Softness/Feel

Okay, this is where all the controversy is. How this hair feels on your face. Everyone seems to agree that this hair is scrubby. I agree. The differing opinions seem to be about whether the scrub is too much or Goldilocks just right. What I can tell you is that the hairs are not horrible. I hesitate to say it is silvertip soft, but it certainly is an experience.

Perhaps it is best to compare the hairs to some other two bands. The hair is about as soft or probably softer than Semogue SOC 2 band. The difference between the SOC & the Manchurian hair is that the Manchurian hair is scrubby, yet somehow feels soft. The SOC is soft, but when you feel the scritch, it feels like scritch/scratch. The Manchurian hair feels like an exfoliating scrub. It is definitely softer than one example of the same brush in 2 band super (manufacture date unknown). However, I think that 2 band hair had very poor feel on my face. Comparing it to the Vie Long 2 band I reviewed earlier, it is not as soft.

The brush definitely has some backbone. The Classic has less density and no glue bump, which means the hairs have more play. My final verdict for this brush in this hair is: soft, but scrubby. Definitely exfoliating. It will be up to you as to whether you like this. The bottom line is that the brush is scrubby. If your face cannot handle the scrub for two passes, this is not the brush for you. But if you want to feel like you are really (and I mean REALLY) exfoliating when you’re lathering, then this is the hair for you. My face can withstand the onslaught, but this is definitely not an everyday brush for me. Still, it is an interesting hair.

The Classic 1 is a handsome brush. The Classic 1 in Manchurian may well be the perfect travel brush. A very expensive travel brush, but a great brush nonetheless.

The Manchurian hair is a unique hair. It has yet to be replicated by another manufacturer. It does require some break in, but it does get softer. Is it for you? Maybe.

Semogue is possibly best known for their boar brushes and their signature wooden handles. The Owner’s Club takes the classic handle to a new level. Available in Ash or Cherry wood, the SOC is a fine, fine brush.

This brush measures as follows:

• Knot size 24mm at the handle, 24mm advertised.
• 52mm loft measured from the metal ring
• Wooden handle, oil finished
• 53 grams

Initial Thoughts

This brush is a handsome brush! From the wooden handle to the two band hair that perfectly accents the brush, this brush delivers on aesthetics. I love the look of the finish and really love the burned or carved logo. Well done Semogue, well done. The only thing I don’t like is the metal ring. More on that later.

Softness

The brush is made from 2 band Manchurian/hog badger hair. The hairs are considerably thicker than Meles meles hair. While this hair is certainly very good 2 band hair, it is not the absolute top tier. However, it is noticeably better than lower quality hair such as TGN Finest, Lijun, Frank Shaving, etc.

The tips are soft on the face, but they do have a noticeable scritch. More than the Vie Long 2 band reviewed here, but not so much as to be uncomfortable or unpleasant. Well, maybe it would be if you don’t like a slight scrubbing feeling.

Putting into words what I feel on my face is a slight exfoliating scrub. Noticeable, but not harsh. Not too dissimilar from the act of shaving itself.

Vie Long is normally known for their horse hair brushes. However, they also make excellent badger hair brushes. What is also interesting is that they utilize a unique method of knot making. According to my source and upon examination, the knot is tied, then glued directly to the handle and a metal cap.

Initial Thoughts

This brush looks fantastic! The lucite handle is quite simply gorgeous! I love the swirl and the red top. It also fits very nicely in my hand. The short loft and short handle are very well combined and make a very proportional brush. The hairs feel soft on my hand.

Softness

The silvertip used in this brush is top tier. That’s really all the substance I can add.

Well, if you want to read more, then I suppose I can type up some more words. When dry, the silvertip hair feels very nice on the skin. It is in the same league as the best silvertip hairs available. Upon very close examination, there appears to be evidence of a light bleach that these tips may have gone through. However, it is not to the same level as Shavemac’s bleaching. I’m a little less impressed, but it does not detract from the softness of the hairs, which is excellent.

Density/Flow

The density of the brush is medium/average. The knot does not bloom very much. Possibly due to thick shafts, possibly due to the construction method. Probably the latter. Regardless, the construction keeps the brush from blooming and spreading the hairs everywhere. Instead, the brush keeps a nice density and flow through.

The hairs are nicely spaced apart and feels very nice on the face. It feels like a top tier brush. The flow through is likewise very good. No problems whatsoever. The brush holds a good amount of lather.